One Pot Pasta Puttanesca

It is said that prostitution is the oldest profession in the world. I think it might be the second, with fund management being the first, but let's not quibble. Pasta Puttanesca ('Prostitute's pasta') is a very old Italian dish. I don't know why it is named this, and probably don't want to know either.

My approach is simple and satisfying, and (unlike other methods) puts the flavour into the pasta. I have a recurring complaint about dishes which are not fully integrated. It should be gin and tonic (stirred) not 'gin.. and tonic' with the two elements hovering at either end of the glass like they have had a bad argument. Similarly, cooking the pasta in water then transferring it to the unreduced sauce gives the wrong consistency. This 'one pot' method leaves the food complex and viscous.

You'll need a medium dutch oven. I use Le Creuset because I'm a show pony, but anything with a heavy lid that can take the length of the dried spaghetti in the base without cracking it will work.

INGREDIENTS (serves two)

Four tablespoons of salted butter

12-15 medium sized tomatoes, roughly chopped into four

Three garlic cloves, crushed and roughly chopped

Some salt (not too much if it is in the butter : go incrementally if in doubt) and pepper

Anchovy fillets (two 2oz/56g tins) commonly available at any supermarket

Tablespoon of dried Herbes De Provence (optional)

Glass of Chianti Classico (or any Italian wine with bright acidity). Chianti's are not expensive wines but my two golden rules are 1) get Classico which are the oldest and best producers in the region and 2) get one with some age (3-4 years minimum) as these are acidic food wines and the young ones can have too much fight still in them. You don't want to drink tight medium-plus acid wines. Their goal is to cut the butter in the pasta, not take the enamel off your teeth.

Dried spaghetti pasta (enough for two). Rough guide : put forefinger to thumb and the right amount should fit that space if in doubt).

SIMPLE METHOD

Put ALL the ingredients APART from the anchovies and pasta into the dutch oven and cook, lid on, at medium-high heat. Check in every ten minutes but this will take longer to cook than you think. The tomatoes will take quite a nuking to bread down their form. 40mins should be expected at a decent heat.

When the tomatoes have broken down sufficiently, they will yield their moisture, and the level of liquid in the bottom of the dutch oven will rise slightly. This is your cue to add the pasta, the two tins of anchovies (pouring in the olive oil they came in also) and stir everything, making sure the pasta is coated and (as much as possible) in the liquid.

Cook the pasta for the suggested time (depending on the pasta brand) leaving it slightly al dente. The goal is the end up with the pasta cooked, but not overcooked, in the sauce with the result being a viscous thick deep sauce/pasta/anchovy fusion. If the heat makes it stick to the bottom, this is great : scrape it off and it will thicken the overall product.

Serve with the rest of the Chianti Classico, which by now will be perfectly aerated. Enjoy, close you eyes, and pretend you are in Tuscany.